May 27th, 2023

Kyoto, Japan

A full day to explore the ancient imperial capital of Japan and the stage upon which much of the drama of the book Shogun took place. I was eager and set for a full blown, get down and into it tourism experience, having joined a group tour with a professional guide. In all of my past experiences such tours have been worth every penny from the insights and knowledge provided by the guide. Not this time.

Our guide was a Hungarian name Daniel which struck me as an odd choice for a tour of an ancient Japanese city but who was I to judge? I knew that knowledge can come from a variety of sources and Daniel must be good for a company like TDA to recommend his employer, Serpentine Tours.

Our first stop was the famous Nijo Palace, power base and stronghold of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder and first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate. It is a beautifully restore and recreated castle complete with specially engineered creaking floorboards designed to prevent someone for sneaking up on someone. Of course a skillful ninja would easily circumvent this safeguard but the common assassin would be defeated by his own footfalls. An ingenious metal substructure under the wooden floor provided the humming bird like chirps that we heard as we walked along. This detail was learned from a different tour guide that I was able eavesdrop on while our guide was playing invisible man. This was trend that would continue throughout the tour.

Next stop was the Golden Pavilion, a Zen temple with its upper two floors covered in gold leaf. I sometimes served as a temporary resting place for the Shogun during his travels (Another detail not garnered from our guide.) The temple is surrounded by elaborate gardens that are well maintained as are all gardens in Japan. At times I would hear the deep sound of a large bell being struck and wandered what it signified. I later saw the bell and a sign that indicated that you could ring it for 200 Yen. What did it signify? The sound of 200 Yen changing hands!

Further on we we stopped at the Ryoanji Temple famous for its rock garden and delicate wall paintings portraying the life of dragons. Sands are carefully raked into patterns surrounding the precisely placed fifteen rocks. No trees, just rocks and white gravel in this Zen garden surrounded by walls made of clay boiled in oil. It was created around 1500 during the Muromachi Period by Zen monk Tokuho Zenktsu.

After a lunch that almost happened but was abruptly canceled by our guide when he feared missing the tour bus to the next destination, we continued our sightseeing at Ginkakuji temple (also called the Silver Pavilion, although no shiny silver here), that was built by the grandson of the shogun who built Kinkakuji, also as a retirement palace. After the founder passed away, the palace was converted to a Buddhist temple in the 15th century according to his wish. Again it was surrounded my immaculate gardens that were cared for with tender and exacting precision.

At this point we decided that our guide was an necessary accessory and politely bid him sayonara to find our own way back to our hotel and a nice cold beer. As an interesting codicil, I can report that Ezster of Serpentine Tours responded promptly to our complaints and offered her sincere apologies and a refund for our tour. A very considerate and professional response. She also let us know that Daniel was a last minute replacement for the guide she had hired to conduct our tour who had come down with a serious illness. A satisfactory explanation and resolution that restored our confidence in Ezster and Serpentine Tours.

Kotohira to Kyoto

May 26, 2023

Our ride ended quite a bit short of Kyoto stopping instead in the City of Kotohira. There is a well known temple here part of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a circular journey to visit the 88 temples associated with Buddhist monk Kūkai. According to Wikipedia, “The pilgrimage is traditionally completed on foot, but modern pilgrims use cars, taxis, buses, bicycles, or motorcycles, and often augment their travels with public transportation. The standard walking course is approximately 1,200 kilometres (750 mi) long and can take anywhere from 30 to 60 days to complete.” There is very little else in Kotohira but plenty of tour busses loaded with mainly Japanese travelers, some wearing white and carrying walking sticks, so I imagine visiting this temple is an important step on the pilgrimage. However, not being a pilgrim and having already seen a few temples, I decided to pass on this one.

We are taking a motor coach to Kyoto to avoid what our tour leader said would be another week of bicycling without as much scenery and a lot more highway traffic. While I am a EFI (Every Fantastic* Inch) type of rider, I had no desire to to blindly follow that motto. I was happy to get on the bus for the uneventful four hour ride.

Tomorrow I am doing a guided walking tour of the city which should be better than just walking around without a plan or a clue. I did take some quality time today to try to find some alternative to my backpacking rain gear which has performed with less than moderate satisfaction. I found a set for around 4,000 Yen ( about $40 Canadian) at a bike shop just a few meters from the hotel but wanting a second opinion, I walked over 3 kilometers round trip to find a North Face store that Google suggested. Bad choice. The “store” was just a department in a high end, multi floor department store that sold all you favourite designer fashions from Tiffany to Louis Vuitton and everything else you may have heard about but never could afford. Far from the North Face originally sewn together up the hill from my Lake Clear home in Foymount, Ontario, the limited selection at this “store” was way overpriced and the inventory less than what you would expect to find at a dollar store closeout bin. At least I got to stretch my legs and get some sunshine.

*There an assortment “F” words that people use for this expression. I leave it to you, the gentle reader to select what you feel best suits the spirit of the motto.

Iya Valley to Kotohira

May 25, 2023

The Iya Valley is one of the most beautiful places in a county know for beautiful places. It is a land of cone shaped, volcanic mountain peaks, cascading waterfalls and twisting roads with heart stopping drops at the edge. We stayed in a classic Japanese resort hotel with commanding views, its own onsen with cable lift access and some very traditional meals. As expected, Japan was expanding my pallet through introducing me to new foods and meal traditions. It is a good thing to toss aside you traditional tastes and dive into something different from time to time and those who know me are likely mumbling, “it’s about time,” under their breath as they read this.

The ride to Kotohira started with a nice downhill glide that for all too brief a time put off the lengthy climb to come. Monkeys played in the trees just out of sight except for the one that ran across the road in front of my bike. The river Iya could be seen hundreds of feet below in the valley it carved over the eons. In one spot some erected a statue of a boy peeing off into the vastness, a celebration of youthful freedom. Next to it is a small Buddhist Shrine filled with offerings of small coins as is the flat rock behind the statue. Further on is the Hinoji Valley which resembles the English letter U and gives the area its name.

Leaving this beauty behind it was time to climb one of the longest climbs of our journey so far. It involved an elevation change of around 950 meters over a distance of approximately nine and a half kilometers. Put simple, it was steep and long. For me it was even longer when a bad directional prompt combined with fogged glasses and Garmin’s annoying habit of not using common sense and directing you to just turn around when you make a wrong turn took me back down to near the starting point of the 100 meters I had just climbed. It is one of those time when a plain paper map would have avoided such an error but plain paper maps are becoming ever more a rarity. By the time I reached the top and started down the narrow road to our lunch stop, I was soaked with sweat and shivering ass the cooler temperatures at high altitude combined with my self generated, downhill breeze cooled me beyond the point of comfort. I ate a quick, shivering lunch before getting back on my bike to head further downhill to warmer climes and a sunny ride on lesser slopes that allowed me to shake off the shivers.

Our stay in Kotohira is in another traditional hotel and another pallet expanding dinner to further push my boundaries. It is what I signed up for.

Hochi to Iya Valley

May 24, 2023

The bicycle rider sees the world in slow motion. The only thing slower is walking and the walker can not cover nearly as much territory even though they can go places where bicycle travel is difficult or impossible. I have done both extensively and for the pure joy of traveling, the bicycle is my first choice for a number of reasons. It is as nearly silent as a footstep and faster but not so fast that you can not let your senses take in all that the environment has to offer, good or bad. Today’s ride was one of climbing and some of the toughest climbs of the trip so far but still a treat for the senses after the exhaustion was put aside.

I should take a moment and write about climbing for my non-cycling friends. A climb is generally considered an uphill ride of 300 meters or more with a rise in elevation of 3% or more. In other words, a gain in elevation of 100 meters over a distance of a kilometer means that you are going up a 10% grade. Down in the USA they sometimes measure grades in degrees but in terms of difficulty a 10 degree grade is nearly the same as a 10% grade. Here is an example: a 100% grade is a straight up wall as is a 90 degree grade. Impossible for anyone on a bike unless you are Spiderman or Batman. For trains a 2% or 2 degree grade is about all they can handle without special equipment. The stairs in the average home have an average rise of around 33%, too steep to ride up on a bicycle, even if it was a smooth ramp set at that angle. Bicyclist tend to get pretty annoyed when the grade gets above 15% and really discouraged above 20%, especially if that grade at that degree of difficulty is continuous over a long distance.

One of our climbs today was around 1,300 meters (4,265 feet) over a distance of 13 kilometers (8 miles) with a continuous climb in the range of 5% to 12% and no flat portions. For my bicycling friends that single climb was like doing most the elevation gains of the Tour de Bonnechere’s Monarch of the Mountain course (100 kms) over a distance of 13 kms. Try it sometime and let me know how you did keeping in mind that I am a 71 year old heart attack survivor.

Of course for every climb there is (hopefully) an equal and opposite downhill. This is not always true and sometimes, like yesterday, you even can get a lot more downhill for your uphill effort. However, those moments are rare and should be cherished. Today there were some nice downhills through terraced rice plantations where rice is grown on man made ledges that spill water onto the next paddy below and on so down the steep mountain side. We also rode through forests with a mix of conifers and deciduous trees with some effervescent green bamboo forests mixed in to accompany the streams and waterfalls along the route. Combined with a landscape more vertical than horizontal it kept the mind engaged and open to other experiences such as the dog sitting in front of a roadside farmer’s home that looked at me with shocked amazement as I rocketed past on one of the steeper descents. On the more gradual downhills, I occasionally saw farmers in their boots and straw hats working in the newly planted paddies pulling weeds. There were also hawks, drifting on currents making the occasional cry as they tried to scare up a meal. Local thrushes and warblers added their songs to my journey and even a cuckoo that chimed in from time to time. Rounding a bend on a steep uphill revealed a small Shinto shrine to a local deity. Further below in a small town a man on a ladder carefully trimmed a cedar to perfection.

A hard but enjoyable ride in the land of the rising sun.

May 23, 2023

There are times when riding a bicycle that the world comes together into perfect harmony with my mind and body. A time when beauty and perfection are all around and I am one with it. Today was such a day. An easy climb took us to a long curving downhill glide along a mountain stream slipping through a dense Japanese Cypress forest. The sound of water splashing swiftly down rocky beds and the breezes speaking their soft murmurings through the branches formed the symphony in my mind. As I negotiated hairpin switchbacks with the wind in my face and nary an effort by my legs, my mind was open to all that my senses could absorb. Kilometer after nearly endless kilometers I rolled on in a rapture with this beautiful environment of fairy waterfalls and rugged streams that carved this magnificent route around and down the mountainside. Every turn a new vista, every curve seemed to bring even greater beauty. Just when it seemed like it would end, I would round a fairly flat bend only to have the road pitch downward into yet another long winding descent. It went on and on and I could tell that this moment was something special; something rare and something to be treasured forever. Today I touched the soul of the world.

May 22, 2023

Matsuyama Castle was on my map and seemed only a short distance away. Despite a less than educational experience at Kumamoto castle I decided to give it a visit. Using my infallible sense of direction I set off towards the castle and quickly found what looked o be an impressive entry gates that quickly led me up a tree lines drive to a very institutional looking building that might have been a seminary or a school or a prison as far as I could tell but definitely not a castle. I next let my infallible logic lead me down a main thoroughfare that skirted the castle grounds. I could actually see the castle high above me and patted myself on the back for being so clever. There were even directional signs indicating the proper path to the entrance. Like a cruise missile I found the ticket booth and happily paid the surprisingly low 200 Yen fee to get in.

I found myself in a beautiful Japanese garden complete with waterfalls, koi ponds and a gurgling stream running through it. A pathway led up steps in the direction of the castle and I followed it to a lovely, one room love shack and a dead end. A sign on the way down indicated that this portion was a lover’s sanctuary. A few more false starts led me to the conclusion that the gardens did not connect directly to the castle. A group of school children passing uphill just outside the garden wall confirmed this as did a conversation with the woman who sold me the ticket.

Like a goose following ancient instincts to its southern home, I followed the sound of the school children up the every rising path to the thousand or so stone steps that brought me to the castle. Another mission accomplished through flawless navigation. I was so proud of myself that I gladly paid a second 520 Yen fee to get into the castle It was money well spent.

Matsuyama Castle, unlike the one in Kumamoto is more than facade over concrete shell. While earthquakes, lightning and even arson in 1936 have destroyed much of the original, it has been faithfully restored or recreated to resemble the original both inside and out. Building began in 1602 on a commanding hilltop and strong defensive location. Massive stone walls pierced by a series of increasingly strong gates funneled attackers into the perfect position for ambush by the castle defenders. Kato Yoshiaki, the lord of Matsuyama fiefdom, retaine the most experienced designers and craftsmen to build his stronghold over the next 26 years even rerouting a river to accommodate the design.

The castle stood as the stronghold protector of the village below until 1732 when over 3,500 people of the fief died of starvation during the rule of Matsudaira Sadahide. Bad times continued with famine and food riots during his rule. A later ruler of the same line Matsudaira Sadaaki became ruler at the age of 22 in 1867 but was dishonored through his role as councilor to the Shogun who was on the losing side of a battle with Imperial forces. He lost his family name in disgrace.

All of this said, the castle is a treasure of artifacts from the feudal period of Japan. From finely made samurai swords to displays of ancient armor, everything has an English translation allowing uneducated westerners like me to improve our knowledge. There are also some great views from the tall castle keeps. You have to remove your shoe when inside but when in Japan you expect to do this often.

Tomorrow we are back on our bikes and off into the hills.

Across and Along the Inland Sea

May 21, 2023

Our day began with a group ride to the ferry dock and then a long wait for the ferry. Since we are traveling by bicycle, they wanted up to load first in order to bbe secured and out of the way before vehicles began to load. This gave us some time to work on our tans and generally goof off. Once aboard and bikes secured, we were free to go upstairs to the lounge area. We immediately commandeered the comfy seats for the two and a half ride rather than sit on the floor in the back as the ferry staff invited us to. Since there was a light load of people on this trip and no one who wanted to sit on something other than the floor was unable to do so, we declined the invitation to be uncomfortable. Some of us ventured up on the observation deck briefly to watch Beppu fade away behind us.

Off loaded on Shikoku at the fishing village and ferry landing of Yawatahama, we stopped to visit a beautiful Shinto Temple and admire the lovingly crafted architecture. A small building to the side of the temple was set up for a traditional Tea Ceremony that could have been right out of Shogun if not for the plastic water bottles.

Our route was fairly flat thanks to two tunnels one of which was over two kilometers long. In both cases there was a sidewalk that allowed some degree of safety from the fast moving traffic passing through alongside of us. Aside from two fairly small climbs, most of the route was a beautiful ride along the coast on a road with quite a bit of Sunday traffic but with good paved shoulders for the most part that allowed us to sight see as we rode along. Sweeping views with hazy mountains in the distance along with the smells of salt air and seaweed made it a most pleasurable journey.

The last few kilometers were busier and less scenic as we came into the City of Matsuyama where we have a day off to rest our muscles and get ready for the climbs and journey to Kyoto.

May 20, 2023

Our hotel was in the caldera of the inactive portion of Mount Aso. This is a resort and spa area that caters to primarily Japanese clients. Robes and kimonos are provided by the hotel and there are separate onsens for men and women. Nakedness is required as is bathing before getting in. Tattoos need to be covered up and no food or drink is allowed. Our dinner was also a traditional Japanese meal with many dishes and an abundance of everything. I tried a bit of everything even the uncooked and thinly sliced horse meat. The next day as I road past horses at a riding establishment, I stopped to offer an apology. They told me in the future if horse meat is offered, just say naaaay.

Our ride out of the volcano was blessed with sunny skies for a bit but as we began the first of nine climbs it clouded over denying us the classic shot of the peak of Mount Aso. However, there were still plenty of other photo worthy moments. Bike riding in Japan is not for those who want a flat land experience. Japan’s geography pretty much guarantees that. On today’s ride we climbed around 1,870 meters or 6,135 feet. To put this in perspective, the Foymount Hill outside of my hometown, Eganville has a climb of 232 meters (760 feet). Four of our climbs today were greater with steepness ranging a steady 5% to 14%.

Our evening destination is Beppu which advertises itself as the Onsen Capital of Japan. If your idea of fun is getting naked with some folks of your same gender and sitting around in hot water, than Beppu should be on your bucket list. Beppu is the place to become immersed in the onsen experience. Tomorrow we catch another ferry for a three and a half hour ride to begin cycling on another island, Shikoku.

May 19, 2023

We had a late start this stay to accommodate a visit to one of Japan’s “must see” attractions, the Kumamoto Castle. The castle was not far away and while not on our cycling route, we were told it was worth the visit. That may be a matter of opinion.

Google Maps does not like to show a cycling route here in Japan so if you are using it you need to select the pedestrian or vehicle option for it to give you guided directions. There are pitfalls with either option. Walking routes may involve stairs and driving routes may take you on very busy roads or roads where bicycles are not allowed. After a nice trip in circles, I abandoned the walking route and switched to vehicle routing. While still not intuitive, and at times busy with traffic, it got me to the castle. Once there I was directed to a very roundabout parking area where I was allowed to leave my bike and walk back to the entrance. Arigato, very much.

After paying the 8,000 Yen fee to get in, I was treated to a long walk up stairs to a beautiful view of the reconstructed castle. What I saw was a faithfully recreated facade of the castle exterior over a concrete superstructure created in 1960 and rebuilt a few times since then.

The original castle was begun as a series of fortifications in 1467 by Ideta Hiedenobu, a local warlord. In 1588 and more important regional warlord, Kato Kiyomasa took up residence and between 1601 and 1607 went on a building spree to create the castle of which we see a reasonable facsimile of today. In 1877 it was subjected to a 50 day siege where a garrison of 3,500 held off an attacking army of 13,000 during the Satsuma Rebellion. Earthquakes have knocked the castle down a number of times and what the did not wreck, World War Two bombed into dust. All of this history was really great to learn but unfortunately, not at the castle. While there are signs at the entrance and ticket booth in English, there is almost zero English once you get in. Everything is in Japanese and if there is a translation available other than using Google Translate for each and every exhibit, it was a guarded secret. Basically you view of the outside of the castle is what you get for your 8,000 Yen if you do not speak Japanese. Inside there are few artifacts and absolutely nothing remaining of the ancient castle. Basically it is a modern concrete museum with ancient looking lipstick outside. A coffee and donuts would have been a better use of my Yen.

From the castle it was a ride out of town and into the countryside where we climbed to the top of Mount Aso, an extremely large and still active volcano. Had it not been foggy and raining the views would have been worth the 550 meter (1800 foot) uphill climb. We ate lunch in a driving wind and rain overlooking one of the largest caldears in the world. It is 17 kilometers across. This evening we slept in a hotel built in that caldear.

May 18, 2023

Nagasaki lies in a valley surrounded by tall hills. Unless you plan to swim, every way out is up. It was a day with nine climbs some over 300 meters. The day started out cloudy but not tool cold but with the rains and elevations that changed. Soaked from the inside out with sweat and from the outside in with condensation, it did not take long for a chill to set in on the downhill portions. By the time I hit the lunch stop I was shivering and needed to add some layers knowing that they too would become wet before too long. Better wet and warm than wet an cold.

Our route took us through some lovely mountains with bamboo and cedar forests. It also skirted Mount Unzen and active and dangerous volcano. In 1991 a pyroclastic flow from a large eruption killed 43 people. Back in 1792 a collapsed portion of the caldera created a megatsunami that killed 14, 500. Even today with sensors monitoring its activity and issuing warning people who live in its shadow know to be ready to leave in an instant.

Tomorrow’s route will take around and partially up Mount Aso another of Japan’s many active volcanoes but one with a less deadly recent history. It last erupted in 2021 but with less force. It is considered safe enough to be a tourist attraction.