It’s not as bad as it sounds
May 11, 2023
Riders enjoying a gentler portion of the the route[/caption]
Leaving a city is always problematic. Many people can equal many cars. Oddly enough, if the city is large enough this is not a problem. Big cities often have bike paths or at least bike lanes. Andong did as well but they did not go far enough. Just outside of the city the bike path ended and we were forced onto a road with narrow shoulders that we shared with large trucks and commuter traffic. The shoulder itself was less than great with frequent piles of dirt, overgrowing vegetation, glass and other roadside debris. Add to this construction and a system of center line dividers that prevented impatient truck drivers from allowing a safe distance between their many tons and my far lesser mass. I took one tree branch in my face while staying as far over as I could and watching the close pass of a dump truck in my rear view mirror. At times we were sandwiched between a narrow road with a center line barrier and guard rails or walls that made the edge of the shoulder the end of the world as far as we were concerned. I was almost giddy with joy to get off that road and into the hills and the eleven big climbs on today’s route.
There were eleven climbs today totaling just over 2300 meters according to Ride With GPS and around around 1600 meters according to Garmin. The route guide said they totaled 1751 meters so who knows why the wide discrepancy? My legs say go with the higher number. There was also a headwind much of the way but it was a plus on those long climbs keeping us cool. Regardless of the elevations climbed the ride was spectacular once we were free of Satan’s Speedway. Our first point of interest was the Turtle Temple. The turtle is a common image in the Buddhist faith. The turtle stands as a prayer, wish, and hope that life’s meaning will endure. It also may means that life finds expression in what a monk gives to others. Turtle monuments often commemorate a monk’s life.
We are still in farming country with the primary crop being apples. There is also the inevitable rice, beans and and other crops suited to smaller acreage. I have yet to see any livestock though I assume there are such operations just in other areas. While some farm homes are of current design I occasionally came across one that was from a past century, although still being actively used.
It is also common to see shrines and memorials along our routes. Sometimes they form a place of worship, particularly for the Buddhist faith or commemorate the life of a departed loved one. These latter memorials usually have some connection with an environment or location special to the deceased. Of course any ride seems to bring the unexpected into view such as a dinosaur themed park that I passed just after lunch.
The next to the last climb was followed by a long swooping descent through the Ice Valley, home to rock climbing schools and a host site for the World Ice Climbing Championships. Rugged rock canyon walls bracket a cold, clear mountain stream that our road followed for many kilometers. It was a sometimes swift, sometimes gentle glide through a slice of heaven.
The Ice Valley is the gateway to Yeongdeok a coastal city on what most maps call the Sea of Japan but which the Koreans insist is the East Sea. Yeongdeok has branded itself as the King Crab Capital of Korea. Let me emphasize this: They have branded themselves King Crab Capital and made a point of it in as strong a way imaginable. They own it, have nailed it to the wall, set it in stone and challenge anyone to out do them. Baltimore take note, you slackers. Of course, our dinner this evening was a crab feast, South Korean style. We were stuffed.
