May 20, 2023
Our hotel was in the caldera of the inactive portion of Mount Aso. This is a resort and spa area that caters to primarily Japanese clients. Robes and kimonos are provided by the hotel and there are separate onsens for men and women. Nakedness is required as is bathing before getting in. Tattoos need to be covered up and no food or drink is allowed. Our dinner was also a traditional Japanese meal with many dishes and an abundance of everything. I tried a bit of everything even the uncooked and thinly sliced horse meat. The next day as I road past horses at a riding establishment, I stopped to offer an apology. They told me in the future if horse meat is offered, just say naaaay.
Our ride out of the volcano was blessed with sunny skies for a bit but as we began the first of nine climbs it clouded over denying us the classic shot of the peak of Mount Aso. However, there were still plenty of other photo worthy moments. Bike riding in Japan is not for those who want a flat land experience. Japan’s geography pretty much guarantees that. On today’s ride we climbed around 1,870 meters or 6,135 feet. To put this in perspective, the Foymount Hill outside of my hometown, Eganville has a climb of 232 meters (760 feet). Four of our climbs today were greater with steepness ranging a steady 5% to 14%. 
Our evening destination is Beppu which advertises itself as the Onsen Capital of Japan. If your idea of fun is getting naked with some folks of your same gender and sitting around in hot water, than Beppu should be on your bucket list. Beppu is the place to become immersed in the onsen experience. Tomorrow we catch another ferry for a three and a half hour ride to begin cycling on another island, Shikoku.
