May 22, 2023
Matsuyama Castle was on my map and seemed only a short distance away. Despite a less than educational experience at Kumamoto castle I decided to give it a visit. Using my infallible sense of direction I set off towards the castle and quickly found what looked o be an impressive entry gates that quickly led me up a tree lines drive to a very institutional looking building that might have been a seminary or a school or a prison as far as I could tell but definitely not a castle. I next let my infallible logic lead me down a main thoroughfare that skirted the castle grounds. I could actually see the castle high above me and patted myself on the back for being so clever. There were even directional signs indicating the proper path to the entrance. Like a cruise missile I found the ticket booth and happily paid the surprisingly low 200 Yen fee to get in.
I found myself in a beautiful Japanese garden complete with waterfalls, koi ponds and a gurgling stream running through it. A pathway led up steps in the direction of the castle and I followed it to a lovely, one room love shack and a dead end. A sign on the way down indicated that this portion was a lover’s sanctuary. A few more false starts led me to the conclusion that the gardens did not connect directly to the castle. A group of school children passing uphill just outside the garden wall confirmed this as did a conversation with the woman who sold me the ticket.
Like a goose following ancient instincts to its southern home, I followed the sound of the school children up the every rising path to the thousand or so stone steps that brought me to the castle. Another mission accomplished through flawless navigation. I was so proud of myself that I gladly paid a second 520 Yen fee to get into the castle It was money well spent.
Matsuyama Castle, unlike the one in Kumamoto is more than facade over concrete shell. While earthquakes, lightning and even arson in 1936 have destroyed much of the original, it has been faithfully restored or recreated to resemble the original both inside and out. Building began in 1602 on a commanding hilltop and strong defensive location. Massive stone walls pierced by a series of increasingly strong gates funneled attackers into the perfect position for ambush by the castle defenders. Kato Yoshiaki, the lord of Matsuyama fiefdom, retaine the most experienced designers and craftsmen to build his stronghold over the next 26 years even rerouting a river to accommodate the design.
The castle stood as the stronghold protector of the village below until 1732 when over 3,500 people of the fief died of starvation during the rule of Matsudaira Sadahide. Bad times continued with famine and food riots during his rule. A later ruler of the same line Matsudaira Sadaaki became ruler at the age of 22 in 1867 but was dishonored through his role as councilor to the Shogun who was on the losing side of a battle with Imperial forces. He lost his family name in disgrace.
All of this said, the castle is a treasure of artifacts from the feudal period of Japan. From finely made samurai swords to displays of ancient armor, everything has an English translation allowing uneducated westerners like me to improve our knowledge. There are also some great views from the tall castle keeps. You have to remove your shoe when inside but when in Japan you expect to do this often.
Tomorrow we are back on our bikes and off into the hills.
